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Defender fixed - bad regulator

Troubleshoot and Fix your Mosquito Magnet. Share your success stories.

Defender fixed - bad regulator

Postby Russ on Mon May 05, 2008 6:24 pm

My Defender that worked well for three years, then wouldn't start at year four. Shot several quick-clear cartridges through it which made no difference. Resetting the regulator did not help. I installed a new nozzle, tested & cleaned the burner according to the instructions at http://gra.midco.net/jmanley/ and still no luck.

The only thing left was either the tube going from the regulator to the solenoid block, or the regulator itself. To test the regulator, I unscrewed the propane tube from the solenoid block. I reset the regulator "one more time" just to eliminate that as a possibility. Then I attached the regulator to a full tank (OUTDOORS!!), and slowly opened the tank valve.

A steady soft hiss and a pungent odor would mean the reg is ok. But if you hear nothing, or it sounds like a tiny stuffed up nose, the reg is bad. Mine made no sound, it was totally plugged.

The Defender regulator is a Marshall Controls Model 150, which is used on many gas BBQs... Char Broil Replacement Hose and Regulator part # 83559 uses the exact same regulator as the Defender. Lowe's sells it for 20 bucks. The hose & fitting are different, so I attached the old hose to the new regulator with a small hose clamp. After putting everything back together, the unit fired right up and has been running ever since.

These regulators are intended for outdoor use but are supposed to used under a PROTECTIVE COVER. If you consider how many MM's are outside exposed to the elements, which is to say all of them, it's no surprise the regulators eventually fail.

Image

Some other thoughts:

1) A MM Defender is a VERY SIMPLE device. As long as the controller board is working and the catalytic converter is sound, the device can be serviced with off the shelf parts.

2) There is no need to use CO2 to blow out the unit. There are no parts in the MM that could be harmed by using compressed air in place of CO2. (Think about it - the thing is full of air all the time anyway) Compressed air works just as well - which is to say, it works okay for certain problems. But if your MM is really dirty, crack it open and replace the nozzle for $5.00.

3) If you're about to take an aluminum bat to your MM (I was THIS CLOSE) please don't do it. There are only a few main parts that will go bad and by process of elimination you can fix it.
Russ
 
Posts: 45
Joined: Sat May 03, 2008 2:01 pm

Postby dnoyeb on Mon Jun 02, 2008 4:04 pm

I think the label on the regulator is trying to say that the regulator itself should only be assembled in a clean environment. Once its assembled, it can go wherever.

I tested my regulator by removing the nozzle from the assembly, applying 12v to the solenoid and lighting the gas. Then I watched the flame to make sure it would run for at least a few minutes. Notice, that there is enough gas just in the hose to keep it running for about 15 seconds so you need to run it a bit.
dnoyeb
 
Posts: 21
Joined: Fri May 30, 2008 8:15 pm

Postby Russ on Sun Jun 15, 2008 12:21 pm

Well the Defender worked like mad for about a month, now it won't start again with a new Blue Rhino tank. The tank is a brand new one with a slightly different valve. It has a one-way slotted security screw (like a rest room partition screw) holding on the knob and goes from closed to open in about 1-1/4 turns, which is much less than the older valves which take about 3-1/4 turns to fully open. I'm going to get the old tank refilled at a station and see if that has any effect.
Russ
 
Posts: 45
Joined: Sat May 03, 2008 2:01 pm

Postby Russ on Sun Jun 15, 2008 2:18 pm

Frig, the igniter is dead now. Did not light up red and crumbled to pieces when I touched it. Ragga fragga.
Russ
 
Posts: 45
Joined: Sat May 03, 2008 2:01 pm


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